BLISS CLIMBING

Bliss Climbing

Love for Solo

Go further and higher on technical walls to reach the top of your projects with or without a partner but always with a rope!

Top Rope Solo Basics

Go climbing by yourself and use a rope! Basic skills to get more climbing done and as safe as possible.

What IF Rope Grabs Touch??

This video explains a nice discovery I made using both devices for top rope solo. Try it and let me know if it works for you!

Top Rope Solo with Petzl Micro Traxion and Climbing Technology RollnLock

"S.O.L.O. Home Safe" System Operate (devices) Locked Obstructions (nothing can hinder) Home Safe: make sure you have all you need: water, food, gear to come back where you are, self-rescue gear.

The Best Climber's Buddy Check

This is one of my favorite TRS climbing setups: I use the LOV2 by TAZ. You can climb and rappel as much and as quickly as you want!!! Pretty unique!

Top Rope Solo Climbing - LOV2 Setup

This is the first step towards testing the Camp Goblin for Lead Rope Solo Climbing. Ok the device is great BUT for now I think anyone trying to lead with it is quite NUTS!

Camp Goblin - Top Rope Solo Climbing Setup

This video is to illustrate how the Petzl Mini Traxion can fail in a Top Rope Solo Situation.

Mini Traxion can fail in TR Solo

Comparison and testing of the GrandWall uAscend and Camp Lift for TR solo climbing (top rope solo). Buy the uAscend by GrandWall at https://www.verticallstore.com just like I did! :-) These devices are similar to the Ushba Basic ISC RED, Troll Rocker and Singing Rock Locker

GrandWall uAscend vs Camp Lift

Lead Rope Solo Basics

The way to multi-pitch adventures. This is how you access true freedom, using a rope, in the mountains!

First Video of My Lead Solo Climbing Online Course

I talk about the use of the clove hitch, alpine butterfly, figure eight on a bight, sliding x with slings (requires 2 extra carabiners btw). I love my silent partner :-)

Rope Solo Anchoring to 2 bolts

The weight of the Live Rope causes backfeeding AND adds to the weight felt by the lead solo climber. Here are a couple of ways to reduce this weight.

Lead Solo Climbing - How to Unweight the Live Rope

This phenomenon might make you safer than you think if you know about the high clip failure mode. It happens with the grigri (all models) and the Eddy. I also happens with the lesser known Birdie, Lifeguard and a few other devices I'm sure!

Lead Rope Solo - Magic Belayers Hand

This is a quick and dirty video on my setup for LRS (lead rope solo) with the Camp Goblin.

Camp Goblin Lead Rope Solo

"S.O.L.O. Home Safe" System Operate (devices) Locked Obstructions (nothing can hinder) Home Safe: make sure you have all you need: water, food, gear to come back where you are, self-rescue gear.

The Best Climber's Buddy Check

If you think the grigri by Petzl never fails, think again! It is a very reliable device to belay a climber with a hand on the break side of the rope. But please be careful if you want to use it for Rope Solo Climbing!! Note that a chest harness can make it worse.

Grigri Failure Test - Rope Soloing Style

A Facebook friend had an accident with sprained ankle from aid climbing, rope solo, with a grigri setup. We went into details and I noticed that something was to be learned. THIS FAILURE MODE HAS TO BE KNOWN FROM ALL GRIGRI AID SOLOISTS!

Grigri Failure - Aid Rope Solo Climbing

Silent Partner + (Modified Revo: NOT MADE for lead solo) Rope is an older Petzl 9.8mm. Do not modify the Revo and do not use it for rope solo ;-) Climbing is dangerous, rope solo even more so. Take your time !!  Stay Safe and Enjoy climbing !!

Test: Silent Partner vs Revo FALLS

Don't forget to catch the dead rope when you fall!

6.08b Revo Repetitive Unlock Failure Mode (Lead Rope Solo)

As of 2019, I can feel a cult-like trend about using an un-modified Eddy AND *no* backup knots. I think this is dangerous. The word must be out there that this setup is very likely to have a "high-clip failure" and that could mean falling 2 or 4 or 6 or 8? meters without the Eddy catching. Also Please ALWAYS have at least ONE knot at the end of your rope!!!

8.05b Eddy Falls - Un-modified = DANGER !!! PART 1

As of 2019, I can feel a cult-like trend about using an un-modified Eddy AND *no* backup knots. I think this is dangerous. The word must be out there that this setup is very likely to have a "high-clip failure" and that could mean falling 2 or 4 or 6 or 8? meters without the Eddy catching. Also Please ALWAYS have at least ONE knot at the end of your rope!!!

8.05c Eddy Falls - Unmod=DANGER!!! - PART 2

Climbers that do rope solo climbing often use the Micro Traxion by Petzl to manage the cache loop. Some do trailing backup knots and the question is if they would survive if the main device became disconnected. This is the first time I see this tested. More test is needed but the solution is promising.

Micro Traxion Testing for Lead Rope Solo

WARNING: this is for entertainment. If you want instruction, look at my online course at blissclimbing.com . I used the Revo by Wild-Country with a Maxim 9.9mm Glider rope. The online course covers the grigri 1, grigri 2, grigri +, revo, silent partner, soloist, and Eddy.

Rope Solo Climbing multi-pitch sport climb - Lolita at Loreto, Baja California

Lead Solo Falling compilation (Silent Partner, Soloist, Revo, Grigri 2, Clove Hitch and LOOSE Clove Hitch)

Rope Solo Fall Compilation

General Climbing Tips

When you want to optimize your climbing, look here.
With Christmas approaching, here are some original gift suggestions for climbing enthusiasts. Transition from Indoor (gyms) to adventure climbing, rope solo, big wall, training ... The list: Great online store run from Quebec-Canada: https://www.verticallstore.com/ Online Rope Solo Courses (TR and Lead): https://blissclimbing.com/en/online-c... The best info on the subject! Book "Transition" by Mark Davidson Jewel (version française prévue janvier 2021 :-) ) https://www.amazon.ca/Mark-Davidson-J... Headlamp Petzl Swift RL: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6004-56... Crack climbing gloves: https://www.verticallstore.com/index.... Belay glasses: https://www.verticallstore.com/index.... Petzl Grigri: https://www.mec.ca/fr/product/5063-11... LOV2 from Taz: https://taz3d.fr/produit/lov2/ Micro Traxion from Petzl: https://vpo.ca/product/268774/micro-t... RollNLock from Climbing Technology: https://www.amazon.ca/RollnLock-Pouli... Offsets nuts: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5057-76... GrandWall uAscend: http://www.grandwallequipment.ca/prod... Xinda rope grab: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32640... Wild Country Revo: https://www.verticallstore.com/WILD_C... Pince de 1po: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ma... Beal Escaper: https://www.amazon.ca/Beal-Escaper-On... Cord 1.1mm Kevlar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40010... Aideer aiders and rusian aiders: https://www.aideerclimbing.rocks/thea... Alfifi (sorry it is hidding in a big wall stash I couldn't show it !!) VERY RECOMMANDED!! https://www.skotswallgear.com/shop/al... Entralpi force plate: https://entralpi.com/?lang=fr Tindeq V-rings and Progressor: https://tindeq.com/ Get 10% (and I will get 10%) with the coupon: "BLISS" Thank you!!! Fingerboard Lyon's Edge: https://lyonsedge.com/ Get 10% (and I will get 10%) with the coupon: "BLISS" Thank you!!! Broom stick! ;-) Online Rope Solo Courses (TR and Lead): https://blissclimbing.com/en/online-c...

Suggestions - Climbing Gifts !!

This is a magic device that enables you to rappel 60 m with a 60 m rope and then retrieve your rope!!! I use it all the time.

Use and Abuse of the Beal Escaper

(Climbing) Shoes Laces

Preparation of your toenails to assault a big wall in a day, stay in your free climbing shoes for 24h, and do some aid climbing along the way. I would do the same for trail running 80 km or hiking. This trick worked for me.

Prepare toenails for bigwalls, trail running or other abuse

Petzl Evolv Adjust - Review and modifications

How to make it, how to use it, who is it for !!! ENJOY ! It is a cheap lanyard, functional and strong :-) Slings, Standard Daisy Chains, Knoted Rope, Beal Dynaconnexion, Petzl Adjust Evolv, Metolius Easy Daisy and Yates are all covered in the course

Everything About the Purcell Prusik for Climbers

This trick is AWESOME for the grigri. It will make this device even more indispensable in your kit. WARNING: make sure the rope doesn't run on the gate of the carabiner (could unlock). ALSO not on the belay loop (could damage it, cut it, and you fall).

How I rappel with the Grigri - Extra friction trick !!!

Big Wall Master

You dream of scaling the big stone?
Here is a basic if you are shopping for a ledge. Runout Custom ultralight portal edge, Durango Sewing Solutions D4 portaledge, Metolius bombshelter portal edge or Black Diamond cliff cabana with fly?

Weight and size comparison for portaledges

Setup of the D4 portaledge by Durango Sewing Solutions - Part 1: Install and take down !

D4 portaledge installation - Part 1/4

Setup of the D4 portaledge by Durango Sewing Solutions Part 2: The Fly !

D4 portaledge installation - Part 2/4

Setup of the D4 portaledge by Durango Sewing Solutions Part 3: some modifications I have done + tips

D4 portaledge installation - Part 3/4

Setup of the D4 portaledge by Durango Sewing Solutions Part 4: Addition of a Fly Bag !

D4 portaledge installation - Part 4/4

In this video I do the simulation of the situation on a vertical big wall with a single point of attachment. I setup my Metolius double bomb shelter portaledge and put it back in the bag. This is a training I did many time to prepare to climb a big wall. I hope you learn from it ! Thanks for watching. By the way the knot is a double overhand knot... Forgive my english 8-) Other videos: More tips and tricks on how to assemble a ledge... (A5-TNF single but tricks apply to most ledges)

How I setup my portaledge while suspended

Some of the tricks come from John Middendorf. Most tricks apply to other ledges too!

How to assemble a Portaledge - A5-TNF single model of 1996

Aid Climbing Master

The way to scale impossible walls! Not as daunting as it seems ;-) Look at the skills here and practice practice practice!
Fastest way to store rock climbing étriers when switching from aid climbing to free climbing. Please tell me if you use this method already, you like it or if you think of a better way. The 3 mm cordelette is optional since you could use the grab loop. This is the method I always use in Yosemite on big walls, El Capitan, or speed climbing.

Best Way to Store Aiders when Rock Climbing!!!

Ladders, Aiders, Etriers, whatever you call them: they are an essential part of big wall climbs and aid climbing in general. Find the most detailed information on (what I think are) the best options *before you buy* !!

Aid Climbing - Aiders Review

Comparison of the Kong Hand Futuras vs the "normal" Petzl Ascension. Should I try the Black Diamond Index you think?

Kong Hand Futura Review (vs Petzl Ascenders)

If you are looking for an in depth comparison of cam-hooks to know what should be best to buy. Look at this video!! Leeper, Moses, GrandWall, Pika, 4 sizes... Clean Aid climb your best with the informations in this video. Also useful for speed climbing.

Cam Hooks - A pretty in-depth comparison of models

I show how to release a stuck ascender or jumar. No big deal but people do not know this trick! Until NOW that is! Works with the Petzl please comment if it works with your ascender and rope. Please include your gear specs! (my rope is a 9.8mm by Petzl)

Jammed Ascender / Jumar - Part 1

I show how to release a stuck ascender or jumar. IF THE ROPE IS LOADED :-)

Jammed Ascender / Jumar - Part 2

Gear Testing

More testing available here soon... Shock loading will never be the same after you watch this.
Silent Partner, Soloist + (Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Eddy: NOT MADE for lead solo) Only 2 survive THIS test with 10 kg. Rope is a mid-life 10 mm Mammut Galaxy Dry rope. Stay Safe and Enjoy climbing !! Rock Exotica Petzl Edelrid Wren

Test Of Lead Climbing Solo Devices (Part 1 - 10 kg weight)

Soloist + (Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Eddy: NOT MADE for lead solo) With a 50 kg weight, some upside-down falls, etc. Rope is a mid-life 10 mm Mammut Galaxy Dry rope. Stay Safe and Enjoy climbing !! Rock Exotica Petzl Edelrid Wren

Test Of Lead Climbing Solo Devices (Part 2 - 50 kg weight)

Silent Partner + (Lifeguard, Revo: NOT MADE for lead solo) With a 50 kg weight. Rope is a mid-life 10 mm Mammut Galaxy Dry rope. Stay Safe and Enjoy climbing !! Rock Exotica Madrock Wild Country Wren

Test Of Lead Climbing Solo Devices (Part 3 - 50 kg weight)

Silent Partner + (Revo: NOT MADE for lead solo) With a 50 kg weight. Rope is a mid-life 10 mm Mammut Galaxy Dry rope. Stay Safe and Enjoy climbing !! Rock Exotica Madrock Wild Country Wren

Test Of Lead Climbing Solo Devices (Part 4 - WINTER)